One way or another, you are going to need to get a perfectly flat (probably via lapping) CHIP to glue (epoxy or Canada balsam) to a (frosted via lapping) glass slide. One of the easiest ways to do this is to go to an automotive parts-house and buy some WET-OR-DRI sand papers in assorted grits; a sequence of 80, 120, 240, 480, 600, 1200 would be satisfactory. Then using 80 grit paper and either a flat glass or formica countertop, and a dribble or so of water, grind the surface flat and carry on up through each successively finer grit (with carefull CLEANING of glass plate and specimen after each grit size).

Then FROST a slide (600 grit) and epoxy (or use Canada balsam) to affix the chip to the slide.

After the chip is mounted on the slide, thinning the chip might be accomplished using the Dremel tool, but I would think would be easier done by using a diamond cut-off blade. There have been several on ebay lately, some (4") which might fit a hand-held grinder. The specimen might be damaged by overheating if a coolant is not used. I would reccomend a "CONTINUOUS RIM" type blade rather than a segmented blade (less vibration, chatter, and chance of destroying chip/slide).
The best bet might be to invest in a (used) wet-tile saw. Some pawn-shops have them for not very much. Some have been on ebay recently at around $30.oo with shipping. Coolant is very important for preventing heat-spalling effects as well as aiding diamond-blade cutting efficiency.

I really think the Dremel tool concept has some serious drawbacks - not the least is trouble that will be caused trying to get the tool to create a planar surface without a jig or holder; but the problems with cooling, dust, and mess that might occur. It WOULD be nice from a portability standpoint - but if that is a prime requirement, a unit called a "DIAMOND - DEMON" was available that could mount a diamond cut-off blade on one side, agrinding wheel and diamon flat-lap (or polishing pad) on the other. This unit was approx. one cubic foot in size, had a variable-speed drive, and a built-in coolant recirculating pump.

Anyway, once the chip-on-slide is reduced to about 0.5 mm, the rest of the process can be carried out easily on a piece of flat glass with various carborundum grits or with the waterproo0f sandpapers. At least that was the way we prepared thin-sections "back-in-the-day" when I went to petrography class.

Proper thickness of the finished thin-section should be 0.03mm. The proper thickness may be verified by observing Quartz under crossed-polarizers through the microscope - Quartz exhibits "first-order" colors of very, very pale 'faint-straw yellow' to very light (nearly colorless) yellow at 0.035mm thickness. See a textbook of petrology or check out:

Optical Mineralogy and Petrography

Final preparation will require either: a) a cemented-on coverslip or b) a final polishing using something like rouge then either levigated alumina or Cerium oxide (both available at Lapidary supply outfits).

A Lapidary supply outlet might have used machines or they might be able to get you in touch with someone who might have equipment to use.

In addition, classes in jewelry making/lapidary might have equipmnet available. Or check at a local college or university.


Good luck!