I am at a deficit for making petrographic thin sections not having a lab in which to prepare them. I had planned to test this following procedure but have not found time to do it.
I would appreciate that if someone reading this does test it if they would inform us as to any modifications or problem areas.
1) mount the rock chip on a glass slide using epoxy cement and allow to cure.
2) using a Dremel/moto tool and a cylindrical diamond embedded grinding bit pass the mounted chip below the grinding bit (probably requires reversing the chip at least once) so that the side of the cylindrical bit grinds down the chip. This should require some sort of jig probably made from plastic to hold the glass slide and in the elaborate mode a string and weight to move the chip beneath the grinding bit.
Note that if the chip is reversed the height above the grinding bit is not changed so that the chip has a very flat surface.
3) using the cement of preference (epoxy or whatever) mount the freshly ground face of the chip to a new glass slide. Create a super smooth surface first though by grinding on a glass with some appropriate grit. Removal of the first glass slide may require breaking it.
4) using the same apparatus to hold the moto tool replace the grinding bit with a diamond saw. Note that the specimen will be mounted perpendicular to the previous manner, i.e. in the vertical plane. Here is the questionable area. Some diamond saws do not have diamonds mounted on the edge. This may turn out to be OK as when the wheel is ground down by the rock it will encounter the diamonds. I have been told these saw will cut rock, tile, and glass. These saws also have holes between the axis of rotation an the cutting edge for cooling. Application of a burring compound or oil (making problems for protecting the moto tool) should make cutting more efficient.
Here too reversing the specimen may be necessary (the largest saw I have found is 1-1/2" diameter) in order to cut through the chip's width.
6) Remove the saw and reinsert the diamond grinding bit. Also return the slide to the horizontal position. In this manner run the now slimmed down rock chip left on the slide beneath the grinding bit (reversing when necessary) gradually lowering the bit or raising the glass slide. Do this until just before the bit would start picking out pieces of the thin section from the glass slide.

This should leave just enough of a thin section to be ground on a glass with grinding grit until the appropriate thickness is achieved.

In the foregoing I had envisioned using pieces of thin (1/16") Plexiglas to surround the glass slide and 2 more to be glued (CA gel) at one end and sprung so as to apply pressure to the ends of the slide to hold it down during the process. Such a holder could be moved past the moto tool via a string attached to a weight and kept in place by a simple track made from Plexiglas strips. This whole apparatus could be built using super-glue of gel variety.

Thanks for any feedback